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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.